Mountain Guiding; Mountain Safety
An Experienced Professional

Guiding Newsletter

November 2001- Tech Tip

Subscribe

Climbing Skins - Different Types

This is not meant to replace hands-on instruction, nor to replace the need for hands-on practice.

These photos show different styles of climbing skins. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, and therefore each style is most useful for certain applications.

	"Kicker Skins" - These are used on cross-country or backcountry skis. They are short skins which cover the "wax" pocket, or the fish-scale area on waxless skis. They make climbing moderate hills and traveling in rolling terrain easier if some of it is too steep for waxes or fishscales.
	"Snake Skins" - These are used on telemark or backcountry skis for steeper hills. They stretch over the base of the ski and have two straps to go around the ski to help hold them in place. These often will not grip quite as well as adhesive skins (below), and snow can get between the ski and the skin. But in the right conditions they can be great.
	Adhesive Skins, "Euro Style" - These are probably the most common style in use today. They have a rubber tip attachment and a tail hook. This provides a bit of tension and helps adhesion even if the glue becomes slightly weak from too much water or too much wear. (However, it doesn't make glue unnecessary!)
	Adhesive Skins, "Standard Style" - These skins have a metal clip for the toe and simply adhere to the base of the ski, with no tail tip. I was skeptical when I got mine but with modern glue I have never had a problem. The tail should be cut so that it ends short of the ski tail. Wrapping it over the tail will usually cause it to stop adhering, beginning at the tail and working its way forward.

Technique Tip(s)

Keep in mind that this is a technique note, not instruction on application. This is not meant to replace hands-on instruction, nor the need for hands-on practice.

Climbing Skins - Different types, use, and some care/maintenance tips.

There are at least three different types of climbing skins, and two variations on one type. They serve different purposes and have different strengths and weaknesses.

"Kicker Skins" - These are used on cross-country or backcountry skis. They are short skins which cover the "wax" pocket, or the fish-scale area on waxless skis. They make climbing moderate hills and traveling in rolling terrain easier if some of it is too steep for waxes or fishscales.

"Snake Skins" - These are used on telemark or backcountry skis for steeper hills. They stretch over the base of the ski and have two straps to go around the ski to help hold them in place. These often will not grip quite as well as adhesive skins (below), and snow can get between the ski and the skin. Another criticism is that they are not good in situations where edging is crucial because of the straps around the ski which help hold the skin in place. But in the right conditions they can be great, despite the bad rap they tend to get. In Utah where the snow is dry and a typical powder day consists of yo-yoing slopes using a good uptrack these things can be the way to go. With practice you can put them on and take them off with your skis on, and there is no worry about getting the glue too wet to keep adhering even after many on/off cycles. (Snake Skins are often used as rentals due to their lower care and maintenance requirements.)

Adhesive Skins, "Euro Style" - These are probably the most common style in use today. They have a rubber tip attachment and a tail hook. This provides a bit of tension and helps adhesion even if the glue becomes slightly weak from too much water or too much wear. (However, it doesn't make glue unnecessary!)

Adhesive Skins, "Standard Style" - These skins have a metal clip for the toe and simply adhere to the base of the ski, with no tail tip. I was skeptical when I got mine but with modern glue I have never had a problem. The tail should be cut so that it ends short of the ski tail. Wrapping it over the tail will usually cause it to stop adhering, beginning at the tail and working its way forward.

Climbing Skin Care

In order to keep your skins sticking well and working over a long time there are a few basic and simple rules to follow. Modern glues are pretty amazing and may let you get away with a bit more than in the "old days", but it is still a good idea to do your best to follow these guidelines.

• Don't get them wet. Be careful when removing them that you don't get snow on the adhesive.

• Keep them warm while skiing down so that they stick better when you re-apply them for going up. Many skiers keep them in inside pockets of their parkas.

• When you return from a trip hang them up to dry, someplace warm but not too hot. Don't put them too close to the wood stove! Once they are dry store them with the adhesive folded onto itself.

• Eventually the glue will need refreshing. Ascension glue is easy to reapply and can be used on any brand of skins, not just ascension. (Ascension was once a company of its own but is now a product line of Black Diamond.) Removing the old adhesive is trickier, if it is necessary. If your skins are not too dirty you can remove enough of the old glue by ironing a piece of paper bag over it. If it's really dirty then the best methods involve nasty solvents and/or a hot scraper. I find it well worth the cost to have a shop with the right equipment do it for me. In Salt Lake I've had it done overnight and was out skiing again the next day. In Oregon I've had a hard time finding a shop interested in doing it at all.

• One final note on the use of skins is that they can "glop up" in wet snow conditions. Sometimes enough to be a serious impediment. This is usually more of a problem in spring but some winters it seems to happen all season. The solution is to buy and carry some skin wax, such as "Glop Stopper". This is a wax bar which you rub over the skins to prevent snow and ice build-up.

Subscribe

Guiding Newsletter Archive